How to use an atc for rappelling. One technique for ascend a fixed line with an ATC guide.

How to use an atc for rappelling. Symmetry allows flipping that extends the life of the device. It has a high-friction mode (HFM) and a regular-friction mode (RFM), giving one the ability to select the appropriate level of friction for the specific belay or rappel situation. Jul 23, 2015 · Requires a neatly stacked rope for easy lead belaying. I can't imagine 6 days ago · When Can You Use a GriGri For Rappelling The GriGri, being a single rope device, can be used for any rappel situation where one single strand of rope is being used to descend. Rappelling is slowly and safely descending a rope. This skill can be done with other devices and MUST be practices to Oct 12, 2022 · After burning through my latest Petzl Reverso shockingly fast I'm thinking about an ATC with steel wear points for a bit more longevity, smoothness on lower/rappel and eco-friendliness. How to Set Up an ATC Belay Device - Beginner Rock Climbing Tutorial #3 #rockclimbingtutorial Passin' Me By (Instrumental) · The Pharcyde Passin' Me By (Instrumental) · The Pharcyde 359 Dislike This video shows the safest method for setting up a rappel for a new climber by keeping them on belay at all times. Proper rope insertion ensures that the rope is securely held in the device, preventing potential accidents. I've done similar, though I wouldn't be surprised if somebody came in and told me that was an absolutely horrible thing to do by current best practices. Best Device for Rappelling and Belaying: The Sterling ATS Rappel/Belay device Best for First Time / Infrequent Users: Black Diamond ATC or Figure 8 Below, I talk a little bit about why it’s useful to buy a device specifically for canyoneering, and then I go in to more detail about why I chose the devices that I did. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Consider taking a professional climbing course to enhance your skills and knowledge. It is a tubular device, which gives it more area and steeper angles for creating friction and stopping power than a Sticht plate belay device. 7 and 11mm (0. I like to have my left (upper) hand on the autobloc, with my right below it on the rappel rope (as Maria does, above). Some climbers prefer the ATC because the GriGri favors right-handed belayers. The ATC Alpine Guide: the ATC Alpine Guide is a miniature version of the original ATC Guide. Lots of options allow careful adjustment of friction while on rappel. This post will walk you through what a rappel device is, how to use one, and some of the most common types of belay and rappel devices. What is Canyoneering? Aug 6, 2021 · GriGri vs. Just the other day I watched the look of horror on the face of a climber as his brand new silver DMM Bug went whizzing down a 150m cliff and disappeared into shrubbery below. Providing an added level of security to your belay, the ATC Pilot threads similarly to other tubular belay devices and accommodates ropes from 8. Jul 23, 2025 · Explore top rappel devices like the ATC, Figure 8, and Grigri. From the point of the rappel you will need to find a good anchor to use. While lowering yourself, keep your legs perpendicular to the wall you are descending. I used to use a Figure 8 primarily for canyoneering, because I liked it better than an ATC in certain situations. Hold the autobloc back while you rappel. Didn’t know if anyone else has done something Like this. Jun 6, 2017 · Dakota, of Live Rogue, walks you through one way to rappel with a personal backup. The most versatile ATC is the ATC Guide (or Petzl Reverso), which includes additional loops that allow you to tie off mid-rappel or connect to the wall for a direct belay. You can use an ATC-style device to belay a climber on top rope or lead, from above or below the climber, and you can also use it to belay two following climbers at once (or one climber using half and twin ropes). If he does more multipitch trad climbing, the atc guide is what you want to get him. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. If your boyfriend does mostly gym or single pitch sport climbing, the grigri would be a good choice. With great holding and stopping power and a versatile design that accepts a wide range of ropes, this classic belay device is ready for a variety of missions. and learn how to lead belay using a tube-style belay device also known as an ATC. Dec 5, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC Guide provides the best value for multi-pitch climbing. Rappelling a Twin Rope With an ATC Belay Device: This will hopefully teach you how to rappel. A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. Presenter - Darrell WestonVideographer - Matt Blecharz Dec 10, 2020 · I’m looking To get a rappel setup together to practice with before next season, and have a few questions. Dec 11, 2016 · How to clip an ATC belay device to rope and harness Chillino Rock Climbing 1. There are many ways to do this, but this one we have found is redundant an Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. The ATC-Guide offers smooth handling while you climb with its lightweight and easy-to-use construction. Mule Hitch Method Stop your descent. This is very appropriate when learning how to rappel, but the additional gear, time, and complexity rarely justify the increase in safety during a rescue (unless a rescuer is rappelling with a patient). This method uses three groups of two ‘biners, arranged in an opposite and opposing manner, to create friction in the system. Couple questions from what I’ve found Dec 18, 2012 · The Pirana is best used with a canyoneering harness with a horizontal belay loop, so the Pirana lies flat. The curved plastic housing on the Pilot was more comfortable to hold onto than the sharp metal edges of other devices, and the rope stayed in the shorter track better. ATC setup (cheaper and safer than a Madrock)- In depth explanation Privileged Bowhunter 9. It's durable, works well with thicker ropes, and creates less friction for the belayer in auto-block mode, an attribute that can More accidents happen on rappel than any other part of climbing, so always take your time, make sure your systems are redundant and practice the steps before you head to the cliff. With each rappel the scenario, equipment, and techniques will be different. The ATC-XP and ATC-Sport are variable friction belay/rappel devices designed specifically for belaying and rappelling during climbing and mountaineering. This becomes important as the Check out a useful skill to switch for rappel to ascend with the Black Diamond Guide ATC. If you struggle to get it through the slot, try pinching it more sharply, perhaps even using your teeth! As you descend shout “On Rappel!” This advises everyone that a rappel will begin. In the HFM, the ATC-Guide has two to three times the friction of the One technique for ascend a fixed line with an ATC guide. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. ATC: Which Is Best for Multipitch Climbing? The Black Diamond ATC set up on multipitch belay on the Casual Route on Longs Peak Both these devices can be used for multipitch climbing. Jun 23, 2023 · Climbing and rappelling go hand in hand. However, it does have drawbacks like Nov 17, 2023 · An ATC has two primary uses: belaying and rappelling. The choice of which ATC to use depends on factors such as personal preference and the specific climbing activity. Join StoneMan Climbing Co. It should fit snug without being tight, and sit above your hip bones. )? Where and in what conditions do you usually climb? Who will you belay? If you already own a rope, will the belay device fit the diameter rope you use? Will you need to use the device to rappel, or to belay up a second climber? Are you looking for a device you can use for any climb, or would you rather specialize? What’s the best way to rappel on a rad line? I know petzl says you can use a Reverso with 2 carabiners, or some people say using an atc alpine or microjul works, and some people even recommend a canyoneering plate like a Grivel scream, but none of these are assisted and you’d still need a backup/3rd hand, and it sounds like prusiks aren’t recommended (but some people use them anyway I teach how to tie, check, and use a Prusik hitch as a safety belay backup. 7-10. They have a high-friction mode (HFM) and a regular-friction mode (RFM), giving one the ability to select the appropriate level of friction for the specific belay or rappel situation. , sport, trad, multi-pitch, etc. While this device is considered by most to be somewhat dated, and can be outperformed by the ATC in most ways and is rarely the top choice for people these days, there are certain situations that benefit from using an 8. Picking a rappelling device is a little bit different than picking a belay device. Rappelling on two strands of rope is common when going back to the anchor to retrieve the rope isn’t possible. The ATC-Guide Climbing Belay Rappel Device by Black Diamond is lightweight and easy to use offering smooth handling while you are climbing to your greatest heights. Sep 14, 2021 · How do you rappel if you drop your ATC? There are three primary methods for rappelling without a traditional belay device: Pursuing a single rope rappel with your partner, using only one belay device. The top devices for rappelling are: The Petzl PIRANA Sterling ATS Petzl Stop Designer The Edelrid Giga Jul The SQWUREL 2 The Black Diamond ATC These devices are good for different uses. All have very similar functionality, are versatile enough to handle any situation, and are extremely safe when used properly. See Abseiling (or rappelling) is a technique used to descend climbing ropes. Jul 13, 2018 · What it is From Black Diamond: The lightweight Black Diamond ATC Pilot represents an advance in technology for the world of assisted braking devices. Dec 15, 2021 · Belaying From Above With an ATC – Using an ATC in Guide Mode The Black Diamond ATC Guide is one of many tube-style belay devices designed with a special guide mode attachment point. If you struggle to get it through the slot, try pinching it more sharply, perhaps even using your teeth! Orient the ATC so the rope runs from the anchor either left to right or up to down. 4 in). The “lever mode” for lowering and rappelling is ineffective, at least with fat ropes; it’s best to use “thumb mode” for lowering and “free mode” for rappelling. Part of the new wave of rappel devices that allow changes in friction while rapping. Using a double carabiner brake rappel with four carabiners. Sep 12, 2023 · When it comes to adding friction on skinny ropes while rappelling, it requires some practice, personal testing, and expertise. This is the thumb-sized ring on the side of the ATC guide, used for attaching directly to an anchor and belaying from above. CRITR3 !!! An innovative rappel device from Todd and Desi at Climbing Sutra, now an Imlay Canyon Gear product. Rappelling is quite safe, but only if performed correctly. Start to rappel, use the brake hand to feed the rope through the ATC. If you struggle to get it through the slot, try pinching it more sharply, perhaps even using your teeth! See full list on outdoortroop. Mar 7, 2019 · An ATC or Air Traffic Controller is a type of belay and rappel device manufactured by Black Diamond Equipment. Back-up systems include extra rope to use as safety back-up known as prusik and personal anchor tether (also known as personal anchor system). Slowly release the brake strand until the Mule Hitch slides down against the ATC and halts your descent. I introduce you to the equipment, knots, and skills for your Mar 8, 2013 · Take the ATC off your rappel carabiner, pinch the rope sharply and push it into one of the slots from the top. Has anyone just used a classic ATC? I know it doesn’t have the built in safety but I could add a modified Prusic above it as a redundancy. I just use a large climbing rated and certified carabiner and with a Munter hitch instead of a mechanical device. Aug 5, 2025 · Though it’s a very simple device to use, care should be taken when learning how to rappel with an ATC. Independent Belay One option is to create an independent belay using a second rope. I’ll cut right to the chase and tell you exactly how to rappel using an ATC, so you can find the answer you seek quickly. Try this in low-risk situations when learning, and get additional instruction. Keep the climber close to your heart, set up your lead belay the right way. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. The most versatile belay/rappel This rappelling tutorial will show how to set up a rappel and build an anchor. Take every measure to properly train and prepare for your rappel. It provides a little extra security for falls, but is larger, heavier,much more expensive, and can only handle 1 rope. Most people are so concerned about going up the wall that they fail to prepare for the (arguably more important) counterpart: safely coming back down. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. This well-rounded belay device doubles as a rappel device, and its capacity makes it our best bet for multi-pitch climbing. This is just a broad level overview to help build confidence, gain knowledge, and know how to rappel for a general descent. Lots of options has made this a popular rappel device especially for The other kind of device is called a grigri. Extending your belay device can be a lifesaver on tricky multi-pitch abseils. They are made out of aluminum. This device can be used as a cheaper alternative to a Ma The ATC-Guide is a variable friction belay/rappel device designed specifically for belaying and rappelling during climbing and mountaineering. do the opposite if you are lef… A single rope geometry assisted belay device with enhanced braking, the ATC Pilot introduces a system that provides an added level of security to your belay, while allowing for smooth rope payout Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Dec 16, 2022 · The ATC’s lightweight and minimalist design relies on two slots for belaying or rappelling with two ropes. The basic rappelling equipment consists of ropes, anchors, rappel devices, a locking carabiner, and a harness. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. Friction (Belay/Rappel) Device There are a lot of different styles of devices to connect your harness to the rope, but the most common is a tube-style belay device like an ATC, which can double as a rappelling device and allow you to pass both strands of the rope through it. In this video I highlight alternatives to the Madrock Safeguard for one stick climbing and rappelling. You can also use an ATC to rappel or abseil, either on twin rope strands or a single fixed strand. Needs a round-stock carabiner for the brake-assist mode to work properly–other constructions work, just not as well. The ATC is a dynamic belay device. Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. May 28, 2024 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. This article will serve as a guide, as to what an ATC is, and how to use it correctly. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. Here’s a review from an REI expert. In this video I demonstrate how you can use a guide ATC to climb SRT and rappel when saddle hunting. Jun 8, 2016 · Five easy steps every climber can take to minimize the chances of a rappel accident. 74K subscribers Subscribe May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Weighing in at only 73 grams, it’s explicitly designed for ascents in the mountains where weight matters and when ropes are skinnier. We'll go over rappelling gear, safe and robust procedures, and the best approach to rappelling in any condition. May 9, 2025 · Climbing is inherently risky. com Aug 5, 2025 · Though it’s a very simple device to use, care should be taken when learning how to rappel with an ATC. Tube devices are superior to plates for rappelling since they allow precise control of your descent speed. Feb 22, 2020 · To help you out, we’ll discuss the three main forms of rappel backups and their various advantages and disadvantages. Carabiner Brake Rappel Clink, Ting, Boing "Dude, I Dropped my ATC!". g. Then a carabiner is passed through the loop of rope and the keeper loop of the ATC. Aug 12, 2025 · The 8 can be used for belaying a climber, but its main intended use is for rappelling. It’s available in many colors and can accommodate a rope diameter between 7. For example, some of them are built for all-around use, while others have very specific functions and may not work as well as This post is going to cover one of the most basic pieces of equipment, the rappel device. The ATC-XP is the next evolution of Black Diamond’s ‘Air Traffic Controller’, tubular belay device. The durable steel braking surface has no moving parts, and the smooth and secure control Sep 29, 2024 · Practice proper belaying and rappelling techniques before using the ATC-Guide in real-world climbing scenarios. The standard ATC, today, can Jul 8, 2021 · ATC in rock climbing: What does it mean exactly? Types of ATCs, why use and WTC and the history of the ATC device! Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. Mar 9, 2021 · Home - Climb - Abseiling Safely: The Complete Guide on How to Rappel Proper abseiling technique is a valuable skill for every rock climber and mountaineer to have in their pocket. Using an ATC properly is crucial for safe climbing. Feb 22, 2020 · This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. This article explains how to extend a belay device. This is as opposed to an ATC-like device, which can fit either one or two strands of rope. On the high friction side, you will typically see an icon of a hand holding onto a strand of rope. Well, you're certainly not going to be double-strand rappelling. Learn how here. (At least in my This clinic will address techniques needed to execute a rappel safely when called for; we'll learn proper use of ATC devices in rappel mode, how to extend and back up the system, and how to set up single and double rope rappels. Learn how to rappel right! Aug 30, 2021 · How do you use rappel ATC? Take the ATC off your rappel carabiner, pinch the rope sharply and push it into one of the slots from the top. How to abseil after you've dropped your descending device? Try rigging a carabiner brake rappel. I’m doing this on a budget for now, to see if I’ll like 1 sticking. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. It is used in climbing and mountaineering, search and rescue, and much more. Others can’t get over the idea of rappelling with a GriGri. 3 and 0. Petzl descenders are adapted for descents in different environments: climbing, caving, canyoning It will teach you how to descend a rope using an ATC, Figure Eight, Rescue Eight, Rappel Rack, Canyoneering descending devices, other rappelling devices and all the little tricks. Mar 8, 2013 · Take the ATC off your rappel carabiner, pinch the rope sharply and push it into one of the slots from the top. Mar 8, 2013 · Take the ATC off your rappel carabiner, pinch the rope sharply and push it into one of the slots from the top. This article explains how to attach yourself to the anchor, and abseil with an ATC. Seneca Rocks Climbing School guide Adam Happensack demonstrates how to properly load an ATC for rappel to reduce the odds of dropping the device. Sep 18, 2023 · The most common types include the tubular ATC, guide ATC, and autoblock ATC. Using a munter hitch, using only one locking carabiner and the climbing rope. This will allow you to use your feet to slowly walk or hop down the wall. Learn all about it here. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. I demonstrate how to use an ATC, a figure 8 and the Ma I teach how to do a simple rappel with simple gear. A six-carabiner rappel essentially uses carabiners to create a makeshift version of a standard ATC. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Designed for single use ropes or half ropes, Petzl manual braking belay/rappel devices are lightweight and simple to use. 23K subscribers Subscribed Sep 8, 2023 · 10/10 on rappelling, done correctly it’s the easiest, safest and fastest way to the ground in my opinion. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. There is just one way to lock off an ATC. The Guide is a bit heavier than the base ATC, but it has ridges that add friction to the system, and you can use it for multi-pitch climbing. Jul 15, 2010 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. Use two hands below your rappel device, one to control the rope speed and the other for your autobloc. Just follow these steps: Step 1: Two carabiners are . By squeezing the top of the autobloc with your thumb and first two fingers, you can simultaneously hold back the autobloc so it Nov 12, 2018 · Using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms. Keep reading to learn how to use a rappel device when rappelling. If you use a rock climbing harness with a vertical belay loop, it will work better if you extend the Pirana (and change orientation 90 degrees) with a small locking carabiner or a 10mm Aluminum Rapid Link. In this video Kerry Lee shows you how to correctly set up your belay using an ATC. If you They provide exceptionally comfortable descent, thanks to the ergonomic handle. You use two of the carabiners to attach to your harness belay loop, two Jan 3, 2024 · How to use an ATC belay device The ATC is typically better suited to multi-pitch climbing and alpine environments. This means that any route you have to rappel off of pretty much requires an ATC or equivalent. Feb 21, 2020 · Lowering/Rappelling We liked the lowering function of the ATC Pilot better than the other passive assisted braking devices we compared it to. You can still fix your line and rappel single strand, however, unless I'm sorely mistaken. With the pre-rigged rappel, we can increase the security of our team while also making the descent more efficient. I don't really see why you would use a grigri for a rappel, though. Learn how to create an extended rappel using a 120cm sling. Aug 26, 2021 · They can be used for belaying and rappelling, with a wide range of rope diameters, and are relatively light compared to most assisted braking devices. Oct 1, 2021 · The ATC is a belay device used by a person on the ground – the belayer – to manage the rope attached to the climber and catch falls. 5mm. Afterward, I’ll talk a bit about this impressive device, its history, what makes it so special, and what are its main rivals. Jul 18, 2023 · The Young and the Rackless, Boulder Canyon Are you a beginner outdoor lead climber interested in learning how to safely clean and rappel from a bolted anchor sport route? In this 4-minute read, I The best and most widely-used rappel devices in modern canyoneering are the CRITR2, the Hoodoo-SL, and the ATS. What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. One of the most necessary features in a solid canyoneering device is the ability to modify friction levels while rappelling. This is a fundamental skill needed to become an independent outdoor climber and the ATC The safest way to rappel with a carabiner is to perform what is known as a six-carabiner rappel. Dec 12, 2022 · Time to use that Oh-Shit-Kit! Double-Strand Ascension With a Guide-Style Atc Device Maybe you rapped past your anchor (using a rappel extension) and you need to switch to ascending your ropes to reach the anchor again. One distinct advantage it has over the Gri-Gri is that it can be used for a double-rope rappel. Then use a third locking carabiner to set up the autoblock off of the belay loop. Dec 13, 2023 · The Verdict Both the GriGri and the ATC have strengths and weaknesses, and an experienced climber should be able to use them nearly interchangeably. Aug 21, 2021 · How does ATC belay work? To use an ATC belay device, a loop of rope is threaded through one of the slots. Jordan Peterson Jan 6, 2021 · Thinking about rappelling but I don’t have the money for a mad rock or petzl. Dec 11, 2014 · Use a second locking carabiner to clip the end of the sling into the rappel anchor to safely secure yourself to the anchor while you set up the rappel. Lowering/Rappelling During lowering and rappelling the performance difference between the ATC XP and its closest competition is very small. It combines a standard tube-style design with the ability to belay following climbers directly off the anchor on multi-pitch climbs, conveniently “ auto-blocking ” to catch their falls. While being lowered by a belayer is generally the most ideal way Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. Although the following steps are for a two-strand rappel, the same process applies for a single strand. A belay device is a metal tube that you feed a climbing rope through, used with a screwgate carabiner, in order to belay a rock climber. Dec 22, 2022 · This makes the XP ideal for climbers who want more control while lowering, rappelling, or ice climbing. Feed a bight of rope through the carabiner. What types of climbing do you prefer (e. My planned setup is 40’ of sterling htp 9mm and either a figure 8 or an atc device. The instructions are for right handed people. This is great for people new to rock climbing or rappelling to get used to Feb 12, 2024 · The Black Diamond ATC-Guide is a device we commend for being able to do it all. Rappel backup basics Backup above the rappel device Before deciding on which backup you’d like to use for your rappel, it’s important to first cover some foundational information. Tie a Mule Hitch above the ATC. The recommended way to use the ATC Guide is to have the brake strand on the high friction side. In recent years, Figure 8’s have largely disappeared in climbing areas, due to the popularity of the ATC (how to rappel with an ATC), as well as the publicity of a few fatal accidents (more information below). With it you can belay on top rope and lead in sport and trad climbing, as well as rappel from the top of a route. May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. The carabiner is then attached to the belay loop of the belayer’s or rappeller’s climbing harness. Rappelling on a Rappelling, or abseiling, is an essential skill for rock climbers to descend from a climb safely and efficiently. This is a continuation of teaching the series of knots and skills needed to do a simple rappel with simple gear. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Learn the pros, cons, and best use cases for each rappelling descender in this expert gear review. Canyoneering Descenders - also called rappelling devices or belay devices - are a specialized piece of gear you'll want before dropping into your first canyon. You do not thread the same rope through both slots. A climbing helmet, hiking shoes, gloves, and of course, comfortable clothes are a must if you are going rappelling. How to use an Auto-Block to backup your rappel. This guide will outline the gear needed, how to set up a personal anchor system, using an ATC (air traffic controller), and adding a third hand for extra security. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Jun 3, 2022 · Learn this reliable system, which includes a backup and basic rope-ascent skills, to make your rappelling safer. Dec 10, 2013 · 4. What Does ATC Stand For In Climbing? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Note: this will have the autoblock positioned in a central and secure location well below the rappel device. peencc vdhtkr fzfn fzlubaj ptggw ybx qjkxxe vuyffhj izqavv zhp