Climbing sling strength reddit. Taking it slow, learning a lot.

Climbing sling strength reddit. When these test are done with a dummy in a harness the impact forces are typically less than half of what you get when using a rigid block of the same weight. Unfortunately, it's hard to find any break tests done on slings that aren't both old and well-used - i. You could accomplish much of the same functionality of the holes using knots. ) Is there much of a difference in strength loss between cord and webbing? What about nylon vs. To answer your question: I think you take a 20% hit in strength even with a perfectly tied water knot. It's still not as safe because you are still relying on the sling to not get cut anywhere. What I would prefer seeing is how this test occurs with a dynamic rope in the system. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. I would like to share my experience for people like me who's facing a dilemma of whether they should go for surgery or not. Leg loops are now shoulder straps, we move the buckles around, cut out the gear loops and put them on some webbing, added the chest strap with some smaller cams are more likely to be janked up slings get worn out, so check those extra closely the newer stuff is generally way nicer than the older stuff good used cams are only slightly cheaper in my experience its more expensive overall to buy a nice set of cams to replace a crappy set you got cuz they were cheaper. We went all out. e. Additionally, the girth (when used with slings) is Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. I know there's an abundance of people who blame strength over technique, but the reality is I can't do a single pull-up. DAV study), wear and abrasion have been shown to be the useful predictor of strength and yours look downright pristine. Climbing gear, for instance, needs to adhere to specific strength standards to ensure user safety. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Is longer better, more versatile? What lengths and how many slings do you carry on your saddle? comments sorted by Best Top New Controversial Q&A Add a Comment I’ve been doing a lot more with accessory rope recently and it always blows my mind how strong it is. The steeper the angle of the turn, the higher the decrease of strength. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD Between 2. Dyneema? What about a standard anchor configuration with a knotted sling? Do multiple knots in the same cord decrease the strength 165 votes, 26 comments. My understanding is that girth hitching can reduce the strength of the sling by almost 50%. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. I knot the cordelettes with a double fisherman's knot. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Straightforward. 13+ is pretty massive Reddit's rock climbing training community. In climbing your max sustained load is going to be approximately body weight, or maybe twice that if you have 2 people hanging from an anchor, say 400lb (2kN). Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. I've noticed a curious suggestion for isometric exercise: The following guidelines govern isometric training protocol: Intensity—maximal effort Effort duration—5 to 6 s Rest intervals—approximately 1 min if only small muscle groups, such as calf Based on data taken from some of the Lattice guys' research papers (Giles 2020 and 2019; links below), forearm Critical Force as a percentage of bodyweight (aka your 'all-day' rate) is a huge factor in sport climbing performance. I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag From BD QC lab: Looking at all the slings and quickdraws we've tested over the years, I'd say there are two main factors that cause a reduction in strength: Abrasion UV Note that age is not on that list. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. That is, low rep, high intensity with progressive overload, eg 5x5 pullups with weights etc. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. Will deploy these while aerial pruning around my properties, and recreational tree climbing. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. Hi! I was wondering what some of the classic strength benchmarks of our sport are? I am thinking: 1-5-9 (also what size edge are these usually completed on?) One arm 20 mm hang (lattice edge for instance) One arm chin-up Any others? 12 votes, 51 comments. I've been reading Science and Practice of Strength Training just to get a better base of understanding of the fundamentals of strength training. I stand by my recommendation and that report shows that the Maxim tech cord performs about the same as 7mm nylon long term. We have ropes, cord, nylon slings that work great and don't fail under these unrealistic tests like dyneema. 16 votes, 22 comments. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. Read a bunch of papers and opted for surgery based on concerns about ROM & strength overhead. 6 million pounds. After a quick search I can’t find any data to back this up, but intuitively - The clove hitch can be loaded by only one strand, but the girth hitch should be loaded by both strands. 8mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope Webbing 4 x 18cm nylon sling - Runners 2 x 17cm dogbone-style quickdraw sling - Recommended by Climbit 2 x 25cm dogbone-style Looking to add a sling to assemble a quad anchor for top rope climbing where it would be best to have extension over the (relatively rounded) edge. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee No holes in the sling leaves it full strength so it could be used in a pinch like bailing from a route. On the other hand, PE slings that were older than ten years, but used rarely, had lost a lot of strength. Sorry if its a super long post! Tldr: The pain from shoulder arthroscopy is totally manageable. Heyo! I've got some older cams I'd like reslung, is there any reason not to just cut the existing sling and tie on some new webbing with a water knot? I'm only asking because the webbing I have one and is a bit wider then the original sling, so it doesn't fit as nicely. Im into rock climbing and canyoneering. When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. Note that I'm talking about slings (flat webbing): The knots usually used to join cords and ropes work differently when in flat material! So it's not ridiculous deadly. And yes we are scared of falling. Girth hitches reduce the strength of the sling while they are tied, just like all knots. In terms of rope efficiency, it can be done with fairly short slings. If there is a climbing gym where you live Reddit's rock climbing training community. Is there anything I can do to train my fingers without What are common sling lengths folks find useful for tree work? I have a bunch of webbing and I’d like to make some beer-knotted slings. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Tldr: slings are fucking cheap, and when in doubt buy new Reddit's rock climbing training community. Training Manual by Mike Doyle is a online manual of the Canadian National Junior Climbing team coach who goes over various workouts and different styles of training (technique, endurance, power-endurance, and strength training) that are relevant to climbing. The two We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Been reading FOTH and John Long to figure out what I need to get. It also makes for an easy way to to extend my A word of warning! Although climbing slings are rated to a high strength of at least 22kN, they are very susceptible to wear and tear. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. The strength reduction from repeated bending is worth noting but the single stand strength is still above 10KN even after 1000 bends in the Maxim tech cord. For example, imagine a new climber cleaning some sport anchors with a pair of slings and lockers. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. The fact is that if you're actually optimizing you're playing a Charisma based class to get better prices on your horsearchers, mercenaries, war dogs, holy water and alchemist's fire and you're rarely going to ever even be in combat to begin with. Abrasion Resistance: Depending on the intended use, the webbing might need to withstand abrasion from rough surfaces or sharp edges. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. The resultant anchor point is non-redundant. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. When the rope is in play that is the dynamic component of the system. Another possible con is that the rope strength may be reduced with bowline knot. Having the cordelette can be really nice for slinging a giant boulder or tree or for times when you dont want to swap leads. Is it as safe to weight any knotted segment as it is the ends? Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). It's even annoying building anchors with them. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I'd say it's a fine purchase, OP, particularly for sport climbing. Wrist flexion / extension : ideally barbells but also dumbbells Pronation / Supination : Hook a sling through some weights. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Keep in mind that the strength rating for these cords are for a single strand. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the Yep, stitching isn't as strong but as a sling daisy is full strength anyway. Check them for abrasion, nicks, and tears. . Use of slings to extend protection can indirectly reduce impact force by straightening the rope path and thus reducing friction, because friction reduces the rope's ability to stretch and absorb energy. Like Dyneema, it is one of the strongest fibers on the planet, especially when Starter rack is complete! Any tips for a new trad climber? Would love to hear all sorts of experiences and advice! Can we have an ELI5 on force factors and kilonewtons? I feel like it's a really important topic that is often not talked about because it's confusing and easy to unintentionally misinform. The home of Climbing on reddit. Do not use any knot except waterknot or flemish bend for slings/flat webbing. Hollowblock will bite even better and last even longer. My understanding is that dyneema slings should be replaced every three to five years. Also, it's easier to adjust and easier to tie. All the alpine quickdraws I see are made with slings. Long story short, got a surgical infection, surgery was undone, spent 4 months in a sling with almost total atrophy on my injured arm 2 more months of rehab It’s apples and oranges. In Korea where sport climbing is plentiful so stocking up on my first serious gear buy. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. I don't know if it matters in this situation, top rope doesn't exactly generate high forces. As strong as slings are, 16% reduction in strength doesn't even make me flinch. 5 can vary from 0. Thursday is project bouldering because it's sandwiched by rest days from pulls. Am I doing it right? Should I use rope instead of slings? Would it be okay with just one sling after two carabiners? How would you built it in this scenario? Sorry for not having better pics of placements. As opposed to endurance or hypertrophy. So your calculations shoud go like this : 2* (rating oft the sling)*0. Small cord will bite better and has a sheath to wear through before the core. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. (While it varies depending on the material and the type of knot, a conservative rule of thumb is about 50%. who else appreciates their attention to detail in having it sit flush. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. That tiny rope is 75% the strength of my heat treated aluminum carabiners that are double it’s width. So I decided to start training properly. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ quickdraws. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Not to mention that tensile strength of nylon changes more with cold temperatures than dyneema does, so if you're using those draws in Core strength allows you to hold your body position in ways that let you “lock off” to avoid movements that peel you off the wall such as barn dooring. 11- to 5. It is important to always do a visual inspection of your slings before using them. Using any other knot to join slings (including the edk!!): Some people have been suggesting using an edk to join slings. Sport draws are short and stiff, which makes them easier to clip but can shift your gear placements around as the rope is pulled along the route. It's not like dyneema slings with overhand knots are required for anything. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • I'm sure someone is going to end up posting that video from DMM about breaking slings. There are many ways to set up a top … What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. Jul 2, 2024 · Tying a knot in rope, cord or sling decreases the strength. I've seen this done before with people cutting off the leg loops and just using the waist belt as an over the shoulder sling. I get it. “In spite of that, we found PE slings that were older than ten years, but had been used rarely and still exhibited very high strength. There's a certain simplicity to that and I have come to like it. Can I get away with 8mm width on a Dyneema sling? Either dmm or wild country did extensive tests (n>>>>1) that showed sewn slings with properly smoothed holes actually resulted in failure of the aluminum before the sling. I recently bought a lot of gear to start climbing outdoors with a few friends, and I went to my local gym to get their opinion on the quality of my gear and how I use it. However, it's also true that knotting a pre-sewn dyneema sling will reduce its strength, as does knotting a nylon sling (just not to such a high degree). Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. At this point all my big, medium, and small cams all have individual racking carabiners, and my three smallest micro cams are on one carabiner. Elongation of sling material is marginal and irrelevant except in the special case of direct tethering to an anchor. If you’re wanting to strength train, make it simple. This is an unheard of practice and I've never even seen dyneema sold in any other form than a pre-sewn sling, for this very reason. If you use two similar slings it's can be up to 80% strength. CF%Bw is an incredibly strong correlation with climbing grade (R 2 =. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Around 2 hours climbing, 1 lifting. trueBecause everybody always throws in the name you would expect, here's something else: rock pillars/ocun (czech republic): really good shoes (eg. Easy to understand. However, I found something I would do differently- curious as to whether anyone picks out the same thing. It requires more rope than a girth hitch, but can be done with a climbing rope which Why is that load bearing climbing gear almost universally bar-tacked while other high load stuff like HD overhead lift straps straps (2" tubular webbing) use a boxed X or similar pattern? From what I've read, the boxed X may be a bit stronger for the same direction of pull. A while back there was talk about the strength of common trees for climbing anchors. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. But the hitch reduced the strength of the sling up to 50% and each overhand by 40% (from what i found on the www). My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). It's not really an issue in practice, and certainly doesn't need to be one. Then you can factor in the strength reduction that the knot introduces into your anchor. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. The 16 mm nylon sling will work as a friction hitch, but has a higher risk of being damaged and therefore losing function as a sling. It’s all for wrist stability, and getting that little bit extra out on the rock. Taking it slow, learning a lot. If you use a 16% weaker sling as a quickdraw, the rock will still break before the sling does. Dynex is a brand name for “ high-molecular-weight polyethylene ” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. 12 votes, 46 comments. I gain sufficient mobility for me to manage my daily life in 5 to 10 days. If you look at front levers and leg raises and similar exercises you can find parallels in climbing. Saturday is power endurance. 5 and 3 hours on working days. 786 votes, 149 comments. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. 3 to 0. This is my shopping cart with my reasoning beside it. I’ve been doing a lot of outdoor bouldering & while my upper body strength and core feel pretty great, I’ve noticed my fingers haven’t really been able to keep up. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Just a thought They are perfect for trad climbing since they can be doubled up easily on smaller bolt anchors, make 4 piece trad anchors no problem, and are long enough to sling around boulders or trees. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. Generally with knots (this goes for ropes, slings and accesorry cord) every turn reduces the strength of the knot. This link is a table of their findings, based on the force of a tree acting as a lever in high winds We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. If they seem quite worn, torn, or abraded, it is time to retire them. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. That said, SWL isn't really referred to in climbing contexts because it's not very relevant. They're just talking about the sling strength, right? Most carabiners are in the 20-30 kN range, so wouldn't the carabiner be the point of failure in most of those setups? I guess you could just double up the biners Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. If your other option is a water knot tied sling, that has 60% strength. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. Bowline can be done with either an open loop (bowline on a bight) or a standing end. Learn all about it here. Hey all! I recently moved a few states over for college and as such I don’t have access to a hangboard anymore (my school’s climbing gym doesn’t have one). The pros seem to be it's easier to untie. I'm trying to extend my top rope anchor a few feet. But it's like $15 (extra vs sling) you'll live to tell the tale. It might make more sense in the long run, and $ wise, to use one single length of static rope to tie all the trees into a master point. trueI'd be ready to do all three if I were you. Setting up anchors Slings are Hi, So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. My guess bar tacks offer a little more redundancy? Drawbacks of Dyneema Climbing Slings If Dyneema is the same strength as nylon, but much lighter, smaller and more abrasion and water resistant, why would you ever get nylon slings? Before you throw out your nylon slings, consider the drawbacks of Dyneema: - Dynamic absorption - Durability - Cost - Melting point - Slickness Dynamic Absorption 64 votes, 89 comments. This would not be my choice to use at all. PROBLEM: I put knots in slings to make my anchors redundant everytime (serene). Feedback much appreciated: Rope 9. Backstory I strained my right shoulder climbing three mths ago Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. Is there a reason? Am I risking death? Why do I feel like i'm the only one doing this? I bought bunch of slings awhile ago so I can have backup when I need one. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Note that these are climbing specific ones though, not the ones you pick up from the hardware store. This review includes 12 of the best and most popular choices available today, which can be used for extending protection to reduce rope drag, building and equalizing anchors, and even as threads or slung MYTH: tying knots in dynex/BD slings should NEVER be done?? My new climbing buddy recently said that in the warranty for dynex slings it specifically says not to tie knots in them since it significantly reduces the strength of the load. While reading this sub and other sources I realize that most climbers/boulderers mostly train for strength. I took a bad fall while running (sprinting, wasn't paying attention) and got a grade 3 / grade 5 AC joint separation about 9 months ago. g. Safe working load is usually significantly lower, around 1/5th of the breaking strength. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! I’ve been reading about how girth hitches weaken slings, and the documentation that comes with my slings specifically says that 2 girth hitches will reduce strength to 11KN. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A HunchoBandoOG • Is it alright to use a knotted sling as a personal anchor system? I know daisy chains are discouraged for the obvious reasons, but is a knotted sling relatively bulletproof? I assume so, but having been surprised by counterintuitive safety hazards I figured it best to ask. Additionally, if you have at least a 2 point equalized anchor, your partner's fall would need to generate twice the breaking strength of sling for it to fail. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. sling or closed cordlette). You should never be climbing above the anchor while clipped into it with a sling. 10 pushups is difficult for me. Sep 1, 2023 · Need to purchase the best climbing slings and runners for your trad climbing adventures? Our expert advice will help, as we've purchased and tested over 30 different slings in the past decade. How’s that even possible? Aren’t these used for anchors and suppose to withstand such use? : r/climbing r/climbing • by Sailost2000 View community ranking My issue is that i like to use the sling as follow : girth hitch to my harness and 2 overhand knots at like 1/3 and 2/3. : r/climbing r/climbing • by Griff_Hamsley View community ranking Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. This allows me to have a sling I can use as a prusik without issue but can also function as a spare sling or an extra quickdraw. Thin Dyneema slings in particular need to be treated with caution with respect to aging. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. Since your quickdraw will all be a standard length, using different lengths of runners to create a variety of options for draw lengths to use together. Hello there, I started climbing about 10 months ago, got addicted and I feel like reached my first plateau. I'm Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. If you make an equalized three point anchor, very common in trad climbing, then your master point actually has three strands of cord. 1. Nov 1, 2024 · We tested a selection of climbing quickdraws from Petzl, Black Diamond, Edelrid, and more to discover the best models Climbing spec is relatively weak already, and tying a water knot in the webbing to make a sling will reduce that by up to 50%. That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. I just recently learned about the bowline knot for tying your harness in for climbing. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). Learn how to choose the type you need. For example, I have some 6mm rope that is rated for 18 KN. Keep slack out of your static anchors. Grip and finger strength is usually the limiting factor on easier problems. Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. Depends where you're climbing, are you anchoring using natural features or gear, have you considered static rope, are you leading the routes first or are the tops of the cliffs accessible by foot, etc. A pretty cool step-by-step explanation of anchor building for top-rope set ups. Girth hitch only allows you to use a closed loop (e. I don't think the fold at the bend will reduce the strength any more then the bend radius itself, right? Reddit's rock climbing training community. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Hell, they’re significantly stronger than my weaker non heat treated Aug 31, 2020 · We field tested 10 of the best climbing slings and runners in 2025 to see which nylon and dyneema offerings are worth your money. Jun 7, 2024 · The quad anchor rig offers fast set up, great strength, good load distribution and complete redundancy, all in a light, compact package. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. 604) and the magnitude of improvement in CF%bw when going from 5. I had a retired Misty Mountain Cadillac, so my buddy and I turned it into a gear sling for aid climbing. This one is a brand new Mammut nylon attached on a carabiner and this happened after it took some friction on a anchor. That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. I have watched many of my guy friends with more natural upper body strength who have been climbing less time than me overtake me grade-wise pretty quickly. This is a big part of climbing in the alpine or at an old school joint like the Gunks. Nylon slings don't lose strength due to age the way Dyneema slings seem to (ref. Many trad routes will wander or traverse, and you'll want to extend your draws to minimize rope drag as you make turns. Climbing-wise, roughly speaking, Tuesday is a light day either drills or slab because it's a beast of a lifting day. Rather than using one sling, is it still safe to use two like this? If there's any doubt, I'll just extend the master point with slings. In addition, I don't believe that girth htiching sling to slings is a good idea in terms of wear. Strength is not an issue as they are all basically the same (22kn). Mammut Contact Sling Stitching <3. Wrap the sling around your hand in either direction to target pronation / supination. ” I assume this is a typo and the first sentence should read Popular Uses for Climbing Slings Draws and extending quick-draws Slings and runners generally come in single and double sizes, with the single length being at least 2-3 times longer than the average quick draw. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. While a few feet of climbing rope would in theory preserve the integrity of the system, I can envision scenarios in which there would be no rope. The cons seem to be lots more people die from screwing up the knot and/or backup knot. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet edelrid (germany): great ropes and quickdraws chillaz (austria): cool clothes for climbing and bouldering of course bd, petzl Reddit's rock climbing training community. Strength: Different applications require different strength ratings. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. We literally hang off of those with 300ft of empty space below us. The quick links we use are rated for at least 20kN (which is over 4000 lbs) and we use them to setup anchors to rappel off or to catch our falls. A girth hitch loaded on only one strand is essentially half of a capsized square knot, and a square knot is not secure (especially a capsized square!). they have been exposed to abrasion Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. And yes I do remember being above the static anchor few times when setting up a top rope (I believe that's the most common case of climber being anchored with sling above the static anchor). The reason (for those who don't know) is that the dummy/a body can flail and does not load the line all at once when the fall is arrested. Now you’re completely on top of each other. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Many groups do not track encumbrance and that greatly devalues Strength. Those strengths add together. That is about 50% stronger than my 10mm dynamic rope. Skinny dyneema is the way to go. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. I've recently lengthened some of my quickdraws by dimsantling normal quickdraws and using dyneema cordelettes to make them into longer alpine quickdraws. Alpine draws are The sling works as well as a piece of 6mm cord but is also a full strength (22KN) sling which I carry as an alpine quickdraw. They get in the way on your harness/over the shoulder and are just bulky as fuck. I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. Nylon does not degrade over time in proper storage. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. Has anyone tried using a sling-style bag? Any additional thoughts/suggestions? Maybe gotta sling a couple boulders and build into an anchor, or sling one really big Boulder, or maybe there’s just a tree! If I’m on bolts I generally will not do the sliding-x but rather tie a know to have a solid master point. If you're on a budget, maybe the long knotted sling would have been more cost effective but both do the job, and there some real conveniences to the PAS. While it is an interesting video and has some important information, that information is more or less irrelevant when it comes to choosing materials for your alpine draws. It's my first time posting on reddit. Hey everyone. How are force factors measured? What is a kilonewton? How do force factors correlate to kilonewton ratings on carabiners/other gear? What situations would possibly over load gear? Add any other questions you Power endurance: 6b Pulling power: 7a Climb consistent 7c/7b+ in a session, and have climbed two 7c+ in world class climbing areas in the past few months. Even if I was at the park, having <8kN breaking strength on one leg of an anchor would bother me even though the force is being distributed across 4 when basketed. Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. As a frequent faller/hangdogger, I'd certainly You don't want big fat slings. That being said, a ff2 on a climbing rope isn't a fun experience, but if you built your anchor half decent you will survive it. it's low risk but not worth it when there are better options out there. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. The results are not as clear and consistent (because of the extra freedom of movement, but the Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. Backpack or sling bag? I've been climbing with backpacks over the years and not had much problem while leading but recently my bag was a big issue. Maybe it is poorly tuned for heavier/taller climbers, not sure if it should follow the same curve for all weights as shorter folks usually need higher % pull/finger strength. 1 is ok, 2 is super good, 3 is allso super good. Any time you're climbing above the anchor you will be on belay and attached to the system with a stretchy climbing rope. sgtof kumts diw frtbbtyk dehhr gzg ohenayhp cai nkcfbx keazal